Saturday, September 28, 2013

10 things that suck about traveling


Disclaimer: Yes understand that I do run the risk of this becoming a meme for “First World Problems”

1. Public restrooms

2. Air-hostesses who literally throw food at you

3. Sitting in an aisle seat on a long haul and having people jumping across you to go to the restroom or sitting on a windows seat on a long haul and wondering how you can jump across the guy sleeping on the aisle seat so you can finally use the restroom

4. People queuing up to board a plane that has not taxied in or landed for that matter!

5.Irritated / bite-your-head-off security check people. Come one, we are trying here! Remove watches, earrings, necklaces, wristbands, belts, shoes, laptops, phones, tablets, liquids! Uffffff! It takes time!


6. How the Asian Vegetarian Meal is always devoid of the delicious mousse or pudding that the normal meal guys get.

7. Learning that the plane is an hour delayed AFTER you are nicely buckled in your seat.

8. Racial Profiling!

9. Walking out of an airport/station only to learn the phone has died, taking along with it google maps and the hotel address!

10.  The thing I hate most though is when all of this traveling and the traveling induced shit-storm ends. Now that is awful.            


Tuesday, September 24, 2013

The Truth Will Set You Free



July 2003: My first day of college at Delhi University. The first day I sat in a private bus. The first day I faced blatant molestation. The first day I encountered real fear.
I sat in the private bus going towards Badarpur border; several passengers boarded the bus, which was scheduled to start in a few minutes. A man sitting in front of me turned around in his seat, and continued to stare at me. I shifted uncomfortably in my seat and looked away. The man on the seat next to me stared at my ankles. I wore jeans that left my ankle exposed to such salacious scrutiny.
I looked back in the front, and the man continued to stare. He took out his tongue and licked his lips. I mustered all the courage I could in my 17-year-old self, and shouted “Bhaiyya, aage dekhiye.” Brother, look in the front. The man smirked, yet thankfully turned around. I bowed my head, praying to become invisible as the whole bus stared at me.

August 2008: I wake up from deep slumber on my window seat in a flight from Delhi to Guangzhou. I feel something near my back. As I move to figure out what it is, the man next to me jumps, and moves his hand. Turns out the foreign object I felt near my back, on the very small portion of skin that becomes exposed when you wear jeans and a tee-shirt and sit on a chair, yes that little sliver of skin, was the hand of this man who sat next to me. I was rendered speechless. I couldn’t believe that the man had touched me while I was sleeping. I didn’t confront him for I did not want to be in the same cylindrical airtight tube for five hours with a man who had felt comfortable enough to slip his hand on to my back, post an argument. I quietly retreated to the back of the empty plane, and wrote a furious article about how violated and angry I felt. The minute I got off the plane I called my friends back home and told them this sordid tale.

Why am I telling you this? For I have a feeling that you may not like what I am about to write next. And I need to establish my ability to empathize before I commence.

I am writing this because I think I owe it to everyone to put it out there. The recent CNN iReport by a University of Chicago student about her nightmarish stay in India became one of the most read iReports on CNN (it presently has 1,154,294 views). It highlighted once again how India continues to be the epitome of hell for women. Of course this struck a chord with many of us. Myself included. I am an Indian woman. I have been molested often number of times to know what it feels like to be violated.  I have had long passionate discussions with friends, and written scathing articles about the sexist, patriarchal, and repressed ways of the Indian society that promote this behavior of men, leaving women as a prey to their advances.
So no wonder when this undergraduate American girl wrote her story, the world was furious, India was furious, and yes, I was furious for the pain this girl had suffered. The fear that she had encountered could be felt by every Indian woman who might have ever ventured out on a dark street alone at night or driven home from work after dinner.  So appalled was I, that I wanted to read more about this woman who had suffered. I read whatever article I could find, saw whatever news item I could lay my hands on. Until I stumbled upon her YouTube channel.  She had many video logs about her stay in India, and of course intrigued as I was, I started to devour them one after another.
In one particular portion of her iReport on CNN she writes “Do I tell them about our first night in the city of Pune, when we danced in the Ganesha festival, and leave it at that? Or do I go on and tell them how the festival actually stopped when the American women started dancing, so that we looked around to see a circle of men filming our every move?”

So of course when I saw a video named  “First Day in Pune (or How to get kidnapped by a festival)” I thought it would shed more light about the horrifying nightmare she experienced. Now I wish I had written this earlier, because the said videos have been taken down, but in this specific video she talked about how she and her friends had danced in Pune on Ganesh Chathurthi and how everyone had stared at her and that had made her feel like a celebrity.
Nowhere in the video does she talk about feeling violated or uncomfortable at the stares or filming she alleged in her blog as unnerving. On the contrary she was excited, and smiling in the video. I am not sure that is how one expresses feelings of fear or anger. I know what it is like to be stared at, and as most women would agree with me, my reaction would be of anger or fear, not the ego boost that comes from feeling like a celebrity. These may sound like big words coming from someone who doesn’t have any evidence. Particularly since Michaela Cross’s YouTube channel doesn’t have these videos anymore (which makes me even more suspicious). But what possible reason could I have for bringing this out in the open but If not to tell the world what I did see, and what I did think after seeing the videos. I am not entirely sure or confident that I want to conjecture any duplicitous motivations on the part of RoseChasm, but yes I am very curious as to the discrepancy between the two accounts. One that was reported right after the alleged event (Ganesh Chathurthi) and one that came to us in the form of the CNN iReport almost a year later.
I did see other videos by her as well. Some of them have her talking about the sari she is wearing, and how she intends to use it as a tablecloth, the abysmal Internet service in India, and other jovial, rhetorical encounters of her stay in India. None of those videos present a picture of a woman living in fear, a woman who is being sexually assaulted or harassed on a daily basis
I am not ordained to justify that a persons experience is less or more painful than what it should be. For how can we ever compare pain experienced by two different people? Neither am I insinuating that India is a safe haven for women, and sexual harassment is not rampant. However, when there are some inconsistencies between what you see and infer and what is told to you, my integrity shouts at me to reconcile that information. So this is my attempt at reconciliation. All I want to know is, are we getting ahead of ourselves in this hoopla of declarations, chastising Indias abysmal safety record (which is valid) based on an account that to me at this moment, seems shaky at best?
Perhaps she did not want to share this trauma at the time, perhaps the videos don’t broach this issue for another reason altogether. Before we jump to any conclusions or make allegations, I want to know why those videos were removed.

This is a question you might not want to hear, but this is an answer I need.


Here is the link to the Youtube video which I had posted on my Facebook Timeline on August 25, which has now for reasons unbeknownst to me, been removed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPu2GmF4Y44

Sunday, September 15, 2013

The Word Everyone is Afraid Of.

Feminist. Yes I said it. We live in an era where referring to yourself, as a Feminist is no longer fashionable or even worthy of admiration.
In fact it’s quite passé or so I have inferred. When people think of a feminist, they picture a woman with a crew cut, in kitsch clothes, thick glasses, and a gay partner in tow. Now, I don’t think there has been any causal link established on this front, yet this stereotype precedes any effort or work that a said feminist may do. Now, I may myself have a short crop and thick glasses, but believe me when I say, the way I look doesn’t influence my ideology or the other way around. It doesn’t matter to me, and it shouldn’t matter to you.
But anyway, enough about aesthetics and appearances.
Feminism is not about establishing supremacy, it isn’t about proving anything. It is a belief that women ought to be respected, be treated at par with men, and be subjected to the same economic, societal, and professional norms and expectations that are applicable to men.  It seems like an obvious stand doesn’t it? But it doesn’t come naturally in India, for reasons entrenched in it’s society and it’s bastions of patriarchy.
The gender imbalance is everywhere – from a sex ratio of 917 girls to 1000 boys (2011 census) to every time a mother buys dowry for her daughters wedding. From the 500,000 girls being lost annually through sex-selective abortions (Lancet Journal) to qualified women quitting their jobs to marry and living in bitter resentment.

India is at the threshold of modernity and tradition. As these worlds collide, Indias world crumbles, its women struggle to maintain their identity - that of strong, professional, independent women, with the traditional garb of expectations wrapped around them. A woman in India knows this well, this veil of fear, of looking over her shoulder. Some of it is real, some is paranoia. How can it not be? When all the news channels are running amok talking about rape cases by the dozen everyday. At this time, we need to brace ourselves; we need feminist ideals and feminists. We need to talk about standing up for ourselves and rejoicing in our strength, our ability to outshine boys in high school exams (Indian Express: CBSE Class XII board exam results out, girls again outshine boys) and essentially realize our-self worth.


I think the atmosphere in the country is ripe for this collective feminine conscience to come together. We need to pledge to stand up for ourselves, our wants and desires, our education, nobody else will come fight this battle for us. We need to pledge to stand up for one another, to not let an innocent woman be undermined, her identity stripped, and molded into a life of fulfilling others dreams. We need to stand up against the insane behavior of cretins against women, and put them to shame. We are 50% of the population after all. If we are together, and fortify each other, no amount of misguided social lubricant can make us slip.
Let us finally, stop hiding behind the veil of fear.


Friday, September 6, 2013

Brown and Furious

Even though invisible weights on my eyes propel them to close, I write this, in my jet lagged state, having traveled 23 hours straight, 10,000 kms back home, in a very pensive state.
Why you may ask, this urgency?
Perhaps the need to bring closure to the anger and questions I was accosted with. Perhaps to present to the world how stereotypes and perceptions afflict so many of us.

Scenario 1: 3 days ago in a very popular hotel chain in Macau, I was buying a gift for my mother. I picked up a Chanel lipstick at one of the giant stores in the hotel, and moved along browsing other items of interest. Soon enough a sales lady came up to me on the pretext of “helping” me out with selecting the right shade of nail paint. As I browsed, she picked up the Chanel lipstick I had selected and kept on top of the nail paint counter, looked at it, and then called her colleague. Her colleague approached us and asked me with a serious face “Did you pay for this?” I was shocked! She was indirectly accusing me of shoplifting! I was inside the store with the products in plain sight (not shoved in anywhere), and yet here she thought I didn’t deserve to buy Chanel. Was it because I chose to dress a certain way or because of the colour of my skin I will never know. When I told her, I intended to pay for all the products together, she quickly corrected her stand, and said “Oh I was just checking the color”. I was rendered speechless.

Takeway: If you look like I do (Indian/Brown) and don’t dress like you stepped out of  Vogue you can’t possibly afford Chanel. If you do pick it up by mistake, you either don’t know the price of this product or are shoplifting.

Scenario 2: I was traveling Economy on Emirates, and not being well that day, wanted to enquire the price of an upgrade so I could pass the journey with some comfort considering it had to be undertaken. As I approached the check in counter and asked the guy if I could purchase an upgrade his exact words were “ You want to pay 10,000 HK Dollars to upgrade?” He said this without looking at the ticket prices. I told him, that I was unable to purchase the upgrade online and hence was compelled to ask him, so if he could just check and let me know the price. His words “ Well ofcourse you couldn’t, you are traveling Economy”. With that the matter was closed, and he didn’t volunteer any information. I did approach the ticketing office later and managed to purchase an upgrade. The amount was cheaper than what the guy had told me earlier. I did get what I wanted, but I was left feeling mortified at this agents crude, snappy judgment. Not only was it bad customer service (a separate issue on service failure/ bad word of mouth) but the social implications were more resounding than ever. Maybe I didn’t look the part of a quintessential business/first class traveler, again maybe my brown skin brought in some stereotypes about Indians, I will never know, but yes it was a humbling experience.

Takeway: If you are not carrying a Louis Vuitton Bag, you have no right to purchase an upgrade to Business class.

Scenario 3: Dubai International Airport. I approach the boarding gate from the business/first class aisle which is empty. The Emirates agent, a lady, who stands guard to check the passport and boarding pass looks at me, irritated, and snaps “ This is for Business Class”. I  hand her my First Class Boarding Pass. Her face contorts into a surprised “Oh” and she lets me through.
I think: Did that just happen?

Takeway: Same as the takeway below scenario 2.

Reality Check: Stereotypes do exist and they do stifle us.
Racism is a serious reality, one which we can not shy away from and racial profiling during travels is one of the most ubiquitous form of racism. It might not seem bad, but it does cast a patina of dirt on this world we are trying to ostensibly make a better place for everyone. The fact that this form of distinction and discrimination exists, even though it may be so tepid in comparison to some forms of racial discriminations people have faced in the last decade, proves that we still have some distance to cover.
I do admit however, that much of the race issue in India is inherently a reflection of its own society and the ills that afflict it, interacting with a sense of inferiority – a legacy of the colonial rule, and a sense of a reverence for all things white. But at this juncture, I only wish to comment on the nature of my recent experience, and not dissect the causes, for delving into that would require another PhD thesis, and the one that I am working at the moment has me quite occupied.

I conclude with the words of Martin Luther King, Jr

“I look to a day when people will not be judged by the color of their skin, but by the content of their character”


Here’s Hoping.